Quality and Style is what you pay for

I get the distinct impression that the competition for your cooked £1 is getting hotter and hotter.

No longer is it acceptable to serve up ok cuisine with ok service in ok surroundings.

I have spoken to a number of friends in recent weeks who have been voting with their wallets as they take up that most powerful of marketing - tool - the personal recommendation.

And it works in reverse too.  If someone doesnt get the very best of treatment, they are more than happy to take their custom elsewhere.

HoHo's in Lees has been on a list of must-get-to establishments for sometime and i finally remembered early enough in the planning of the weekend to book and get a prime-time Saturday night table for two.

The blue light that spills out onto the High Street is welcoming and the place was bustling as we entered, with a larger group pouring over menus in the seating area to the left and several others sat at the bar or in the downstairs part of the restaurant to our right.

We were asked if we wanted a drink or to go straight to our table and as it was bang on our booked time, this was a good start, so we headed up the stairs.

The eating area splits either side of the staircase with minimal decoration and classy lines.

At the top of the stairs in a serving area from which the staff scuttle in and out each time the bell goes to let them know the dumb waiter is on its way up from the kitchen below.

All the tables were busy.  There was a nice feel about the place.  And had only snacked at lunch so was ready for the action.

We both opted for Thai hot and sour tom yum soup, one with chicken and the other with king prawns (£3.80 & £3.95) and this had a real kick to it and was in no way gooey as can sometimes be the case.

Rather than try to piece together a dim sum second course we went for a combination bo bo platter (minimum for 2 at £8.00 each).

This came on a wooden polo mint shaped bowl that fitted on to a metal frame over a flame.

The tasty wooden-skewered bited included beef-teriyaki and lamb satay teriyaki plus barbeque spare ribs, crispy chicken wings and prawns on toast, all with a serving of deep fried seaweed and a spicy dip.

The meats were already warm and appetising but putting them onto the small griddle over the living flame really fired them back up again and, with my liking for food being piping hot, was a real hit.

The ribs were finger licking good too while the toast was thick with delicious prawns.

The main menu has the option to create your own dish from a combinantion of sauces and meats but the chefs specials were also demanding attention.

In the end, after much deliberation, we chose the Thai green curry with chicken (£8.90) from the specials, combo Malaysian satay (£9.00), a Singapore-style vermicelli (£8.00) and a pot of fried rice (£7.50).

Both the mains were sizable portions with large slithers of deliciously cooked meats in quite contrasting sauces that complimented well.  The vermicelli was a good choice as a change from the rice and also filling.

I've eaten at Chinese restaurants where over-orderingleads to far too much food being wasted.  On this occasion, by the time the two of us had had our fill there was just the last remants of the noodles and a bit of rice.  The rest - devoured.

We couldnt manage sweet but did have coffee, while earlier we had had a beer and a glass of wine while ordering and a bottle of refreshing Bois Cendre house white (£10.95).

Ironically, one of our attentive and immaculate waitresses apologised for a slower than usual service that had been caused by a combination of being very busy and a staff member going off ill at the last moment.

We had actually only seconds before commented on the on the fact that the meal was excellent and certainly not conveyor-belt eating.

It only helped to add to an absorbing dining experience - even down to the floor walking Gary Ho who with the mere point of the finger or swift phrase, keeps everything to the highest standards.

At £72, its not the cheapest of ways to eat Chinese.  But then again, this is no ordinary Chinese restaurant.

Oldham Chronicle Preview - Wednesday 2 March 2005